Kool-Aid Pickles

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A GALLON jar of pickles sits near the register at Lee’s Washerette and Food Market, a mustard-colored cinder-block bunker on the western fringe of this Mississippi Delta town.

Those pickles were once mere dills. They were once green. Their exteriors remain pebbly, a reminder that long ago they began their lives on a farm, on the ground, as cucumbers.

But they now have an arresting color that combines green and garnet, and a bracing sour-sweet taste that they owe to a long marinade in cherry or tropical fruit or strawberry Kool-Aid.

Kool-Aid pickles violate tradition, maybe even propriety. Depending on your palate and perspective, they are either the worst thing to happen to pickles since plastic brining barrels or a brave new taste sensation to be celebrated.

A Sweet So Sour: Kool-Aid Dills

Photo credit: Tony Cenicola for The New York Times

Salting Your Food While It’s Still in the Ground

Harold McGee’s Curious Cook blog refers us to a recent paper which notes that growing tomatoes hydroponically in a slightly salty solution produces fruit with more flavor and more vitamins.

Tomato lovers know that a sprinkling of salt enhances the flavor of even the best field-ripened specimen. Some recent news that bodes well for improved flavor in greenhouse tomatoes: you can enhance tomato flavor by salting the plant as the fruit grows! At the Institute of Vegetable Science in Freising, German scientists grew hydroponic tomatoes in a solution that was 0.1% sodium chloride, about one-thirtieth the salinity of seawater. The plants produced fruits with significantly higher levels of flavorful organic acids and sugars, and as much as a third more vitamin C and beta-carotene (the precursor to vitamin A) and the antioxidant red pigment lycopene. The researchers don’t say whether the tomatoes were saltier than usual. They were smaller, so salting the growing medium may be the hydroponic equivalent of dry-farming, which restricts the availability of water to the plant and the dilution of flavor and nutrients.

Doritos croquant polvoron at El Bulli

Hungry in Hogtown details El Bulli’s radical transformation the humble Dorito:

Some members of the fooderati look down their noses at Doritos and other junk food, but let’s be honest here: Doritos rule! Salty, cheesy, and mildly spicy, they are flat out addictive. There are times (and perhaps it’s best I not elaborate on what times I’m talking about), when the craving for a Dorito is so strong I swear I can hear the siren song of a large bag of Sweet Chili Heat beckoning me to crash on its crunchy shores.

So you’ve got to love the cojones (by the way, how do you say “balls” in Catalan?) of Ferran Adria for even thinking he can improve on the humble Dorito. Adria’s solution: polvorones. What’s a polvoron? It’s a Filipino dessert made by mixing toasted flour with melted butter, powdered milk (or baby powder, apparently), and a little lemon or vanilla extract, then molding the mixture into bite-size cakes using a polvoron stamper.

The Society of Quantitative Gastronomy

If ever there was a professional association I might aspire to join, this is it: The Society of Quantitative Gastronomy! The Society’s objective:

The objective is to facilitate interactions between academic researchers and professionals of Gastronomy from several perspectives: economics, econometrics, sociology, psychology, management, marketing, chemistry, sensometrics, and to develop academic research in these different fields of analysis.

Some typically nerdy papers presented at their first annual conference:

  • “Is Breakfast Really Free? Evidence from French and Italian Hotels”
  • “Food Fetish: Gastronomy as Spectacle of Subversive Desire in Spanish Fiction and Film”
  • “Wine, Balloons, and Mud: Gastronomic Tourism and a Divided Landscape in California”
  • “The Gastronomical Fair of Dijon as Consuming Spectacle”
  • “Food decision, information and personality”
  • “Gastronomic follies: The spatiality of excessive hors d’oeuvres from the Desert de Retz to Le Patissier Pittoresque”
  • “Econometrics of taste: some recipes with ranks”