Archive for 'Food'

Mast Brothers Chocolate

Posted on May 17, 2010, under Food.

Cupcake Cannon

Posted on May 10, 2010, under Food.

Cooking with Photoshop

Posted on February 18, 2010, under Food.

Cabbage & Color

Posted on February 14, 2010, under Food, Science.

The bold color of red cabbage is due to a pigment molecule called flavin, which is part of the anthocyanin family. Anthocyanin pigments are excellent indicators of the pH, or relative acidity or basicity of their environment. If you’ve ever made a slaw with red cabbage you’ve probably seen this effect in action — the normally dark purple leaves will instantly turn red or even pink once you add vinegar to the mix, whose acidity lowers the pH of the mixture. Anthocyanins can exhibit a wide range of colors, from hot pink to red, through deep purple, then on to blue and even green.

Culinary Applications

David Barzelay of EatFoo uses this chemistry as the basis of an incredible dish for his Lazy Bear supper club: “Two Cabbages”. The dish is presented in two separate components: a bowl with a pile of Brussels sprout hash and a dollop of whipped Meyer lemon topped with nigella seeds; and a beaker of red cabbage soup. The second cabbage in the name refers to the Brussels sprouts, which are essentially baby cabbages.

The diner pours the soup into the bowl, where the acidity of the Meyer lemon immediately brightens the dark purple soup.

As the lemon and the soup are further incorporated, the soup takes on a bright pink color.

What a beautiful soup! A little bit of chemistry and creativity elevates a mundane cabbage soup to an elegant and dramatic dish.

Exploring the Color Palette: Green Eggs & Ham

The broad spectrum of colors that red cabbage can take on offers plenty of room for creativity. One idea for a playful dish could be “Green Eggs & Ham”. Egg whites are alkaline, with a pH of 9 or 10. Because of this, cabbage juice will turn green when exposed to raw egg whites. A Dr. Seuss-inspired breakfast perhaps?

On A More Serious Note

The anthocyanins that create these beautiful color changes may also have more important applications. They are used in new organic solar cells, where they convert light into electrons. Early research has also shown that these compounds, especially those found in black raspberries, have a powerful ability to inhibit cancer, aging and neurological diseases, inflammation, diabetes, and even bacterial infections. Researchers are actively exploring ways to make use of these incredible compounds.

Momofuku Ko

Posted on June 3, 2009, under Food.

Momofuku Ko is not a restaurant of many words. No menu, no “would you like to hear about this evening’s specials?”, no elaborate descriptions of dishes. Just fourteen seats, three chefs, two hostess-slash-sommeliers, one long bar, and some really incredible food. This is fine dining stripped down to its barest essence. So in keeping with the spirit of Ko, I’m going to let the photos do most of the talking in this post.

(Note that David Chang has instituted a strict no photography rule at Ko, so all of these photos are from flickr users who dined pre-ban, with the exception of the fantastic cookbook library in the bathroom, which I took myself.)

flickr photo by bionicgrrrl

flickr photo by EssG

flickr photo by EssG

Our 10 course dinner tasting menu:

  • Smoked potato risotto with ham crumbs and chives
  • Chicharrones with togarashi salt

flickr photo by EssG

  • Buttermilk biscuit with black pepper butter, honey, and mirin
  • Raw Long Island fluke, whipped Sriracha buttermilk, white soy, toasted poppy seeds

flickr photo by roboppy

  • Chilled dashi soup, Santa Barbara uni (sea urchin), charred pea tendrils, sugar snap peas, cucumber, wasabi oil
  • Lightly smoked coddled hen egg, caviar, fingerling potato chips, onion soubise in sweet potato vinegar, chervil

flickr photo by roboppy

  • Green Washington state asparagus, white French asparagus, seared diver sea scallop, morels, yuba (soy skin), puffed black rice
  • Roasted soft shell crabs, fresh hearts of palm, celery ribbons, Old Bay, lemon juice
  • Shaved torchon of Hudson Valley foie gras, riesling gelee, lychee, pine nut brittle

flickr photo by roboppy

  • Deep-fried boneless short rib (cooked @ 59 deg. celsius for 48 hours, then deep-fried for 4 mins.) with spring allium (grilled ramps, pickled pearl onions, warm leek puree, chive flowers) and veal reduction

flickr photo by roboppy

  • Guava sorbet with a cream cheese “skin”
  • Funnel cake, black sesame ice cream, lemon curd, coconut

We skipped the drink pairing, but I started with a white ale from Oregon, followed by Masumi Arabashiri sake. Ranae started with a sparkling rose wine, then a chardonnay.

… and a soundtrack for the meal, from music played from the chefs’ iPod:

  • Radiohead – Paranoid Android
  • Nirvana – In Bloom
  • Jane’s Addiction – Stop
  • Smashing Pumpkins – Tonight, Tonight
  • Dinosaur Jr. – Just Like Heaven (Cure cover)
  • Modest Mouse
  • Wilco
  • Flaming Lips