Cabbage & Color
The bold color of red cabbage is due to a pigment molecule called flavin, which is part of the anthocyanin family. Anthocyanin pigments are excellent indicators of the pH, or relative acidity or basicity of their environment. If you’ve ever made a slaw with red cabbage you’ve probably seen this effect in action — the normally dark purple leaves will instantly turn red or even pink once you add vinegar to the mix, whose acidity lowers the pH of the mixture. Anthocyanins can exhibit a wide range of colors, from hot pink to red, through deep purple, then on to blue and even green.
Culinary Applications
David Barzelay of EatFoo uses this chemistry as the basis of an incredible dish for his Lazy Bear supper club: “Two Cabbages”. The dish is presented in two separate components: a bowl with a pile of Brussels sprout hash and a dollop of whipped Meyer lemon topped with nigella seeds; and a beaker of red cabbage soup. The second cabbage in the name refers to the Brussels sprouts, which are essentially baby cabbages.
The diner pours the soup into the bowl, where the acidity of the Meyer lemon immediately brightens the dark purple soup.
As the lemon and the soup are further incorporated, the soup takes on a bright pink color.
What a beautiful soup! A little bit of chemistry and creativity elevates a mundane cabbage soup to an elegant and dramatic dish.
Exploring the Color Palette: Green Eggs & Ham
The broad spectrum of colors that red cabbage can take on offers plenty of room for creativity. One idea for a playful dish could be “Green Eggs & Ham”. Egg whites are alkaline, with a pH of 9 or 10. Because of this, cabbage juice will turn green when exposed to raw egg whites. A Dr. Seuss-inspired breakfast perhaps?
On A More Serious Note
The anthocyanins that create these beautiful color changes may also have more important applications. They are used in new organic solar cells, where they convert light into electrons. Early research has also shown that these compounds, especially those found in black raspberries, have a powerful ability to inhibit cancer, aging and neurological diseases, inflammation, diabetes, and even bacterial infections. Researchers are actively exploring ways to make use of these incredible compounds.
Momofuku Ko
Momofuku Ko is not a restaurant of many words. No menu, no “would you like to hear about this evening’s specials?”, no elaborate descriptions of dishes. Just fourteen seats, three chefs, two hostess-slash-sommeliers, one long bar, and some really incredible food. This is fine dining stripped down to its barest essence. So in keeping with the spirit of Ko, I’m going to let the photos do most of the talking in this post.
(Note that David Chang has instituted a strict no photography rule at Ko, so all of these photos are from flickr users who dined pre-ban, with the exception of the fantastic cookbook library in the bathroom, which I took myself.)
flickr photo by bionicgrrrl
flickr photo by EssG
Our 10 course dinner tasting menu:
- Smoked potato risotto with ham crumbs and chives
- Chicharrones with togarashi salt
flickr photo by EssG
- Buttermilk biscuit with black pepper butter, honey, and mirin
- Raw Long Island fluke, whipped Sriracha buttermilk, white soy, toasted poppy seeds
flickr photo by roboppy
- Chilled dashi soup, Santa Barbara uni (sea urchin), charred pea tendrils, sugar snap peas, cucumber, wasabi oil
- Lightly smoked coddled hen egg, caviar, fingerling potato chips, onion soubise in sweet potato vinegar, chervil
flickr photo by roboppy
- Green Washington state asparagus, white French asparagus, seared diver sea scallop, morels, yuba (soy skin), puffed black rice
- Roasted soft shell crabs, fresh hearts of palm, celery ribbons, Old Bay, lemon juice
- Shaved torchon of Hudson Valley foie gras, riesling gelee, lychee, pine nut brittle
flickr photo by roboppy
- Deep-fried boneless short rib (cooked @ 59 deg. celsius for 48 hours, then deep-fried for 4 mins.) with spring allium (grilled ramps, pickled pearl onions, warm leek puree, chive flowers) and veal reduction
flickr photo by roboppy
- Guava sorbet with a cream cheese “skin”
- Funnel cake, black sesame ice cream, lemon curd, coconut
We skipped the drink pairing, but I started with a white ale from Oregon, followed by Masumi Arabashiri sake. Ranae started with a sparkling rose wine, then a chardonnay.
… and a soundtrack for the meal, from music played from the chefs’ iPod:
- Radiohead – Paranoid Android
- Nirvana – In Bloom
- Jane’s Addiction – Stop
- Smashing Pumpkins – Tonight, Tonight
- Dinosaur Jr. – Just Like Heaven (Cure cover)
- Modest Mouse
- Wilco
- Flaming Lips
Tags: david chang, momofuku ko
The Edible Martini
Following up on my last post, here’s video of Dave Arnold demonstrating his technique of vacuum infusing cucumber with gin and vermouth to create an “edible martini”.
Tags: cucumber, dave arnold, martini
Cocktails at Woodson and Ford
I had a great time at last night’s Dining & Libation Society event held in the beautiful new underground space some are calling Woodson and Ford. The bartenders each spoke about the creation of their cocktails and shared some of the sophisticated techniques they used. Regrettably, Dave Arnold’s 1,600 degree hot poker was on the fritz, so a new cocktail had to be substituted in at the last minute for his Red Hot Manhattan. On the other side of the temperature spectrum, liquid nitrogen was pumped out of coffee carafes to quickly chill the inside of each glass before being filled with a drink.
The Drinks
Admiral Warrender
By Lynnette Marrero & Jim Mearns
Scotch, Demerara, Orange Bitters, Qi Black Tea Liquor
A simple but lovely combination, pairing the smokiness of the scotch alongside that of the black tea.
Sgt. Fruity Peppercorn
By Johnny Iuzzini & Dave Arnold
Pink Peppercorn, Rhum Clement, Grapefruit, Creole Shrub, Edible Twist
“Pink peppercorn” refers to a spirit that Dave Arnold distilled from some “very special” pink peppercorns, sourced from Manhattan’s “Mr. Recipe” no doubt. Grapefruit juice was clarified then frozen into ice cubes which were used to shake the drinks. The “edible twist” was a sort of orange peel confit, which I imagine was simmered low in simple syrup for many hours until totally edible. This drink got a dusting of herbs — flash-frozen in liquid nitrogen and blended — on top.
The Swedish Chef
By Johnny Iuzzini & Dave Arnold
House made Aquavit, Cucumber, Apple, St. Germain, Lemon, Bubbles, Martini Cucumber
After being mixed, the “bubbles” were added by carbonating the drink directly from a big canister of carbon dioxide. The “martini cucumber” garnish was delicious — batons of cucumber, vacuum-compressed with a gin and vermouth solution until beautifully transparent.
George Mendes contributed appetizers including bacalao (salted cod) and coconut mousse with candied olives, seared shrimp with smoked paprika, and curry-dusted potato chips.
UPDATE 3/18/09: Serious Eats has more on the event, including a few photos.
Tags: cocktail, dave arnold, johnny iuzzini
Dining & Libation Society
I’m really looking forward to tonight’s speakeasy event hosted by the Dining & Libation Society.
Join Eat Out editor Gabriella Gershenson for an evening of innovative libations from longtime collaborators Johnny Iuzzini—the Jean Georges pastry chef and part-time barkeep—and foodie physicist Dave Arnold of the French Culinary Institute. Sample their wizardly potables at TONY’s exclusive Dining & Libation Society cocktail event. Also on the menu: a sneak peek at the tapas from chef George Mendes’ forthcoming Spanish eatery, Aldea. The hush-hush location will be revealed to confirmed attendees.
If we’re lucky maybe the duo will re-enact their performance from the Blue Blazer Mix-off at Pegu Club last fall. The Blue Blazer is a flaming cocktail created by legendary bartender Jerry Thomas, who refused to mix the drink unless it was 50 degrees or colder outside, or his customer had the flu or a cold. Dave and Johnny up the showmanship of the original drink, with Dave shooting an arc of flaming bourbon down the length of the bar, and Johnny struggling to extinguish his flaming arm. Watch for yourself:
Jerry Thomas’ Blue Blazer
- 2 1/2 oz rye or bourbon whiskey or Brandy
- 2 1/2 oz boiling water
- 1 tsp powdered sugar
- lemon peel
Use two large silver-plated mugs, with handles. Put the whiskey in one mug, and the boiling water into the other, ignite the whiskey and, while blazing, mix both ingredients by pouring them from one mug to the other. If well done, this will have the appearance of a continued stream of liquid fire. Sweeten with sugar and serve with a piece of lemon peel. Serve in a four-ounce stemmed mug.
Tags: aldea, dave arnold, fci, george mendes, jeon georges, jerry thomas, johnny iuzzini